Shaper parts and progress

[ScrapMetal]

Thanks for that little education. I too like to work on and with older style tools and machines, just thought I was missing something with the shapers. When I get more time I have three old International tractors to dig out of my father in laws barn and restore. I like old tractors and tinkering with old stuff so these projects should be right up my alley although I have never worked on a tractor restore project.

Durwood

I have a "thing" for tractors as well. Long after my grandfather passed away I was able to procure both of his old tractors (JD "B" and AC WD45) as well as a little David Bradley work horse.

B



I don't have any pics of the WD45 and it's being stored out at my brother-in-law's place. All of them are slated for simple restoration as I don't intend to take them back to "factory fresh".

I found handles like the pic above on eBay. Sold as parts off an old engine, as I remember. Square drive, but not sure of the size.

When I was working on the shaper the other day (pretty much bathing it in Kroil ) I found that the crank handle on the top of the slide slips off and can be used on all the other square extensions. It looks like I won't have to fret about getting more crank handles just yet.

I also found that it is loosening up much better than I had hoped so it appears that it will be coming back into service with less effort than anticipated. Woohoo! Now I'm starting to seriously look for a shaper vise to go with it. I see a couple on the 'bay but it is killing me to pay more for the vise than I did for the shaper by twice and that doesn't even include the shipping. May have to bite the bullet and do it anyway.

-Ron

[ScrapMetal]

After sitting for a couple days with penetrating oil in/on/over it I had a few minutes to "play" with the QC shaper. Yoohoo! I took the crank handle from the top position and placed it on what I thought was the "actuator" (for lack of better term), the drive post on the lower center of the shaper and started applying a little elbow grease. I was almost shocked when everything started to cycle properly. The gearing felt pretty smooth and tight - so no missing gear teeth or other major problems. The table advance unit was all nice and loose but still needs some serious rust removal once I figure out how to disassemble it. Even though I was hand cranking it, it was alive!

The next step is to probably figure out how the motor is wired (115 or 230) and get it cleaned up. It seems to be in pretty good shape but I won't really know until I can apply power to it.





I'll also need to get a new belt for it as the old one is pretty shrunk and coming apart. It's kind of a funky belt though as it seems to be a leather core with a nylon/braided cloth sheath around it. I'll try and take a better pic of it so I can show the details. I doubt I'll be able to find an exact replacement but I'm sure that a standard leather belt will be just fine. I hope anyway.

-Ron

[Turbinedoctor]

Ron I just noticed the electrical disconnect enclosure for a tool box on OL' John. That was a pretty cleaver idea by someone.

[ScrapMetal]

That would be my grandfather. A really amazing guy.

-Ron

[ScrapMetal]

Well, progress, sort of... "One step forward, two steps back..." Starting with the minor stuff, a detail pic of the belt:



Folded cloth belt held together at the ends by metal loops/pin.

Found a vise locally and it even looks like it will work! It's a "News #2 vise" what ever that means.





Now for the "two steps back":

The shaper table is raised/lowered with a two-piece post/threaded tube setup. The two used to be joined by a full-dog ended set screw (Thanks Tony) but somewhere along the way it was horribly abused and the two have parted ways.





Over the next couple of days I'll be trying to get the table pulled off (found out it's a two-piece table, should be interesting) and then working on repairs.

-Ron

[ScrapMetal]

Pulled most of the table off today:






Didn't get the back piece off as I'm not 100% sure of the proper way to do that. I pulled the bolt that goes through the back of the table and attaches to the "drive" but the "drive" remains solidly fixed to the back of the table. Could be stuck or could be attached in a way I can't see. I'm thinking that I'll just have to pull the acme screw rod out and lift the remaining piece out of it's track.

I did loosen up the ways/slide/whatever it's called for the vertical movement of the table and it shows no sign of wanting to move. Could easily be the reason the lifting mechanism was destroyed, trying to move the immovable.

Also pulled the slide off so I could see what's going on there. All looks to be in good shape. Warning! Naked shaper pic




I'm probably going to take a break on disassembly for a bit. I need to procure some kind of shop lift before I try and pull the horizontal slide. I'm not sure how much it is going to weigh but it looks heavier than the table itself. My wife would be very unhappy if I hurt myself playing with my toys.

-Ron

[rleete]

Soak that thing with PB Blaster or some other quality penetrating oil. Use a name brand, like Kroil, Liquid Wrench or LPS. NOT WD-40! Really soak it and let it sit overnight. Spray it again in the morning. Use it liberally on any mating surfaces. Get into every nook and cranny you can, and after a day things will start to free up. If you've never used the stuff, it's really amazing what it can do if you give it time to work. It will also help with cleaning the rusty bits.

I'm betting the horizontal leadscrew goes through a block on the back part of that table, and it probably pinned/screwed in place from the back. Think minilathe cross slide. I think you're going to have to pull the leadscrew out to get it off.

That vertical screw doesn't look that bad. There's a gap in the thread when it was pinned, but it's only chipped off a little. I'd just clean it up and reuse it as is. But use the penetrating oil, don't force it with the screw.


Edit: where are you located? I love to tear into old machines. A little scrubbing with a wire brush, a lick of paint and it'll look like new.

[ScrapMetal]

Soak that thing with PB Blaster or some other quality penetrating oil. Use a name brand, like Kroil, Liquid Wrench or LPS. NOT WD-40! Really soak it and let it sit overnight. Spray it again in the morning. Use it liberally on any mating surfaces. Get into every nook and cranny you can, and after a day things will start to free up. If you've never used the stuff, it's really amazing what it can do if you give it time to work. It will also help with cleaning the rusty bits.

I'm betting the horizontal leadscrew goes through a block on the back part of that table, and it probably pinned/screwed in place from the back. Think minilathe cross slide. I think you're going to have to pull the leadscrew out to get it off.

That vertical screw doesn't look that bad. There's a gap in the thread when it was pinned, but it's only chipped off a little. I'd just clean it up and reuse it as is. But use the penetrating oil, don't force it with the screw.


Edit: where are you located? I love to tear into old machines. A little scrubbing with a wire brush, a lick of paint and it'll look like new.

We think alike on how to approach this. All moving parts on the shaper have been liberally drenched with Kroil for the past couple of weeks. It has really been fantastic how things have freed up, some I didn't even know could be freed. That stuff is great albeit a pain in the butt to get hold of. It was actually cheapest and easiest for me to get by ordering it directly from the company. They even threw in my choice of Silikroil or Penephite http://www.kanolabs.com/penLub.html The SiliKroil has worked extremely well, btw.

I'm thinking that you are correct on having to remove the leadscrew. I've already taken a couple pictures of the auto-advance mechanism to document it for re-assembly. Nothing worse than having a pile of parts and being unsure of "Which goes on first?". Along with the Kroil I also loosened the bolts that hold the horizontal slide onto the vertical track. Even with that the thing is still rock solid and shows absolutely no sign of being able to move up or down. Over the weekend I think I am going to try placing a jack underneath of it (with proper padding) to see if it can be broken free at least.

Do you really think the vertical screw can be used the way it is? That kind of surprises me. I guess I'm not really sure just how much strain gets put on that piece once everything is loose and working properly so maybe it will be okay. Once I get the parts out and can really give them a good going over that won't looks as bad, but I've got to say that I have my doubts. My oldest daughter says I'm a pessimist.

As for location, I think it may be a bit far (Nebraska) but you're welcome to grab a wire brush and go at it.

Thanks much,

-Ron

[rleete]

Do you really think the vertical screw can be used the way it is?

Yes, I do. For three reasons.

1. It's at the top. How often are you going to move the table all the way up or down? Chances are, you'll never even use that part of the screw.

2. If you look at the nut, you can see that it engages several threads at once. Looks to me like 5 or 6. So, there isn't much weight on that one part, it's all captured within the nut.

3. It's an acme thread. They are very strong, which is why they're used in machines like this. Even with part missing, I think a properly sized pin will hold everything just fine.

And lastly, it's going to cost you to replace it. Why spend money if you don't have to? On the other hand, it's probably cast. Find a good, experienced welder, and he can add a glob of metal into the hole. You'll then have to do a lot of fussy hand work with a file, but you could make it disappear. I say worry about getting the thing all back to running order, and decide after that if it really needs attention.

[ScrapMetal]

Good points!

I haven't measured it but now that I think about it, at full "down" travel that spot probably doesn't ever engage the "nut". I could probably have a 2" bolt sticking out of it and it wouldn't have an affect on the table travel. That would alter the "repair" landscape a bit.

I'll definitely take a ruler to it tomorrow in order to see where it stands.

Thanks,

-Ron